Huon Valley

Huon Valley is a pretty area as well as a wonderful food growing area. We based ourselves at Geeveston which is a great place to reach many areas south of Hobart for some interesting day trips around the southern areas of Tasmania.
 

The historic train at Ida Bay

We were there towards the end of a cool summer and just before the end of the cherry season and so we were able to indulge in kilos of fresh succulent cherries. Apples were also in season and pears were just about to start as were the berries. There are salmon and fisheries all along the water edges. With the appropriate licenses you can indulge in catching your own fish or seafood. Obviously with so much great fresh food, there are great eateries in the area too. We had intended to stay 3 or so days in Geeveston as a central base. However when we got to the campsite, we met up with a very friendly bunch of people and enjoyed their company and as it worked out they knew the Rutlands and told us that Kim and her delightful family were on their way, so we decided to stay a bit longer. This is one of the reasons I love about free camping: one is rarely ever tied to a timetable or schedule and a few extra days here and there can easily be accommodated.

Free camping at Geeveston's Ex Services Club

We felt very comfortable with leaving the bus at the free camp next to the Ex Services Club to do day trips. There's so much to see & do if you want to or you can sit back and relax by many of the creeks and bays in the area too. You can drive to Ida Bay and take in a little historic train ride, you can go & see the wonders of Hastings Caves and then relax in the nearby Hot Springs. You can even easily make trips right down to Cockle Creek from here if you didn't want to take your RV everywhere.

Cockle Creek

Hastings Cave

On some days we just went for a drive around the country. One short trip was just a bit south to Police Point and the little fishing village of Dover following the twisty windy coast road where we saw salmon farms, quiet little coves and some interesting old buildings. One spot had us puzzled for quite a while... there was this little block of land right opposite a club and next to a catholic church with maybe 20 posts with these odd looking chains and 'something' on each one. We finally figured out that the site must be the location for some serious wood chopping contests. Pity we didn't get to see these strong burly men in action.

The mysterious blocks

A view of the Huon Valley

Another slightly longer trip was north to Huonville and then across the river and east to do a loop through Cygnet, Gordon, Kettering (where the ferry to Bruny Island runs from). It was lunchtime by the time we reached Snug, so when we saw this restaurant there The Spectrum Cafe, we just had to try it out and what a wonderful meal we had there. It was 'just' a pizza but oh what a pizza. It was one of the best I have ever had. Eventually we continued on our way to Margate before turning west to rejoin the highway near a horribly named town of Sandfly. Even though the weather was not so nice for our drives, it is good to get out and still we can get to see some lovely places from the dry warmth of our car as well as it gives one a break from sitting indoors all day when it is raining.

Police Point

The weather had been less than friendly for much of our time here as there has been an extraordinary amount of rain. Still with small breaks in the weather and great company we managed to have a grand time other than Rob getting an infection. On that note we can certainly recommend Dr Clare at Geeveston's Medical Centre. He is very thorough and lovely to boot. We were going to have to have further test to find the source of Rob's infection and that necessitated staying around as well. As it worked out, especially with Rob's illness, we ended up being in Geeveston for nearly 2 weeks.

Cockle Creek

Cockle Creek is the southern most point of Australia that is accessible by road. This is the furthest south you can access by road in Australia, and it ends just past the sign, literally at the edge of the world. To reach the true southern most point, there are walking tracks through the Southwest National Park.

The drive from Ida Bay is gravel at best and dirt at other times. At least half of the distance is pretty rutted with pot holes and such you need to drive reasonably slow to avoid tyre damage or worst. Though it is very possible to take any type of RV vehicle through to the bottom, we are so glad we left our motorhome back in Ida Bay and just took the car down for a day trip. Still the 20 kms of rough track to Cockle Creek was rewarded by beautiful bays and coves with extraordinary aquamarine water and the gentle quiet lap of the sea on the rocks and shores.

Cockle Creek has beautiful beaches and bays and pristine cold waters though we did see some brave souls in the waters and great fishing. We are so glad we had a lovely sunny day as it was mighty cool at the tip and if you were not protected from the winds you would believe it to be much colder than it really was, even though it was late January and thus middle of Summer it was still mighty cold. It is not hard to remember that the Antarctica is not very far away. There are a few camping grounds in the area, mostly within the National Park but a few are free camping and I think I saw one commercial park.

Being adjacent to the national park if not already within at NP, there’s plenty of wildlife including Tasmanian Devils, wallabies, spotted quolls, pademelons (Rufous Wallabies) to name the most prevalent ones.

We went straight to the tip with its very short walk to the life size sculpture of a 3 month old whale to commemorate the whaling industry that founded Tasmania's industry. There was a whaling station employing two hundred people in the immediate vicinity of the beach, butchering whales and even attracting sharks that fed on the discarded 'offal' that couldn't be converted into money.

On our way back we stopped at one of the campgrounds for a picnic lunch. There is a huge flywheel and some other equipment where we had our lunch. There is an information board giving information of a unique family which included 2 teenage girls who worked alongside their father felling giant trees and transporting them back in the ‘good old days'. It was here that I dipped my toes in the Great Southern Ocean. Brrr it was cold. I keep saying to anyone who will listen, that "I think Tassie forgot to have a summer this year!"

Camping at Ida Bay

Ida Bay is the last campground still on bitumen road going south in south Tasmania. The road continues but is is dirt road of dubious grading. It is suitable for cars and one could take a small motorhome or such but you need to travel slowly as there are quite a bit of corrugations, pot holes and such on the road further south.

Ida Bay has a large grassy area next to the Historic Railway line and Cafe which is available for self contained RV including several large rigs at a low price of $10. You can pay a little extra for toilet, showers and laundry facilities. There are even a few hut type of cabins but we haven't seen the interiors and can not comment on them. The area is not quite level but nothing a levelling block or 2 can't fix. Certainly at $10 per night per rig it is not bad and you can safely leave your caravan or motorhome here for the drive to Cockle Bay or other places.
There’ s also a 44gallon drum for incinerator type fires on the block. No evidence of camp fires though I imagine above ground camp fire would be acceptable during the appropriate fire ratings. We didn’t attempt a fire in the short time we were there and didn’t think to ask. Sorry.
 

The train is Australia’s oldest 2 foot gauge. It is the last operating bush “tramway” in Tasmania and it runs 4 times a day and takes you on a 14km run through beautiful bushland to Southport Bay and cost $28 per person. You can hop off at the end and go for a walk or picnic on the beach, whatever and then catch a later train back.

Ida Bay is a very handy location to visit Cockle Creek and Hastings Cave. I met one family who were staying in one of the cabins. They were here to go caving as there are a lot of caves to explore in the area, so if that is your thing, go for it!

There are other camp grounds especially further south however as I said above, the roads between Ida Bay & Cockle Bay is gutted by pot holes.

Tahune Air Walk

The Tahune Air Walk is a wonderful way to see the uniqueness of the wet southern forests.

Tahune Airwalk hangs out over the Picton River

Our day trip here from Geeveston started with a short walk when we stopped first at the Look In Lookout. We had our picnic lunch in the picnic shelter here with birds waiting to eat the crumbs we left behind. One poor black ... was being swooped by the much smaller birds though mostly he was ignoring his smaller cousins. The walk was a gentle stroll allowed you see some lichen covered trees and rocks and listen to the trickle of water rushing over some rocks nearby. There is machinery left behind from the logging days. It was a pleasant walk but no big shakes.

A steam engine left behind in the bush at the Look In Lookout.

Then we drove further down the road to the carpark for the Air Walk. At lunchtime, the car parks were full and we parked in the overflow area. We paid our tickets ($27 per person) and away we went. There are mountain bike trails, hang gliding (though it is more controlled like the old style flying fox with a gliding canopy above you!), a cafe and lots of lovely picnic areas. Do not think you need to have your picnic right near the cafe which most people do, there are picnic tables and such scattered further afield. One area I thought would have been lovely is just over the first bridge overlooking the Huon River.

Fun with a hole in a tree

We headed off on the first walk to the Air Walk. We meandered along the tracks were though you are going uphill a fair bit, it is mostly gentle with a few short group of steps. There are also a few seats along the way to stop and rest and take in the forest around you. The size of some of the trees are simply amazing. As a short aside, the largest flowering plant in the world is the Eucalyptus Regnans. It can attain heights of close to 100m making it one of the tallest tree species in the world and the tallest flowering plant and you are surrounded by them in this forest. The tallest one in the world is just under 100metres tall and was found just about 5km away though you can’t walk to it as there is a protected eagle nest close by and so it is closed to the public for protection of this nest.

Part of the view from the end of the Air Walk

It doesn’t take long and you are starting on the Air Walk which takes you through the amazing forest canopy. Every now and then there are signs pointing out a species and the relevance of that species. I can also detect the scent of the white flowering sassafras that are scattered all through the forest.

Lovely scented sassafras flowers on trees along the walk

Finally you get to the end or the overhang part of the AirWalk which you a wonderful view of the convergence of 2 rivers, the Huon River and the slightly smaller Picton River.

Don't think that you have finished here. You can also go for an additional walk over 2 swinging bridges which are great fun. You can be as sedate as you like walking across the swinging bridges or you can have some spine tingling fun as I like to do and jump and swing deliberately. Yeah I know - I haven't quite grown up yet! One bridge goes over the Picton River and the other goes over the Huon River.

One of 2 swinging bridges that are available at the air walk.

 

A short walk takes you to the actual junction of the 2 rivers

Even though the car park is full and there are a lot of people obviously visiting the park, and having lunch at the cafe or picnics near the cafe, it never once felt crowded on the walks for which I am thankful.

Free camping at Geeveston

There's two choices for free camping at Geeveston and more in neighbouring areas. We stayed at the Ex-servicemen’s Club on the southern side of the town which has kindly opened the Memorial Park next door to free camping. The area is almost level and is suitable for any self contained RV including several large rigs. There are 2 toilets at the back of the club for use. There is also a rotunda for use in the grounds. Patronage of the club is the accepted ‘fee’. We had a basic but reasonable dinner at the club on Friday night. (By the way, if a club is not your cup of tea there is also an excellent free camp on the other side of the town too which is great!)

Free camping at Geeveston Ex Services

The campground also runs along the banks of a small river in which there are resident platypuses which can be seen though they are shy creatures. Apparently there are also trout in the river too.

There's a river that runs alongside the camp ground that has platypus in it.

The grounds are within walking distance to the town centre and includes a IGA, butcher, bakery, laundromat, cafes, etc. There is a great Information Centre with a lovely collection of old wood working tools including peddle lathes etc in the gallery upstairs.

Make sure to visit the Southern Design Centre which features marvelous timber furniture and other woodwork. I was taken with the handmade dance and gym costumes and other handcraft there including alpaca woolen items. There is also a cafe which also sells homemade yummy goodies too.

Southern Design Centre has so much more than just wood crafts too!

You will notice as you walk around the town that there are life size timber carvings of prominent and interesting characters through the town centre and a few elsewhere. Most come with a brass inscription describing the persons depicted as well as information about their personalities which makes these people come alive. I wish I could have known some of these characters such as the swearing pharmacist who was known not only for his colourful language but also for the helpful assistance he gave to the people in his town.

The swearing Chemist is one of many sculptures in town

Geeveston is less than a hour south of Hobart and a great spot to base yourself for a few days. You are within easy drives to places such as the Tahune Air Walk, Hastings Cave & The Hot Springs, let alone such places and wineries, cafes, museums, craft shops, galleries and beaches etc.

Hastings Cave

Swinging Bridge is something else to see and walk at Tahune Air Walk

Geeveston is a definitely clean and friendly community. We found we were made to feel very welcome at every level. We also had a lovely time of worship and fellowship at the local community church just across the road on Sunday morning.

Tahune Air Walk

In fact the whole Huon Valley is beautiful with its lush pastureland and wooded areas, hills and rivers, what more could you ask for? Did I hear you say the beach, well that's easily fixed too as there are beaches within half an hour drive east going either south or north of the town!

Hastings Cave & Hot Springs

We were fortunate to have a rare sunny day even though it was quite cool for a day trip to Hastings Cave and the Hot Springs near by. We took a picnic lunch with us and stopped along the road on one of the short walks. We were entertained by the local birds especially watching the antics of one particularly brave smaller bird making repeated swooping attacks on a larger black bird, most likely a currawong. I guess it was protecting something maybe a nearby nest though it just looked like bullying to me.

As is to be expected there are many different stalactites and stalagmites and interesting structures. It is very interesting to see all the various colours and configurations that God encourages nature to form. I understand it is one of the premier caves to be seen in Tasmania. Hastings Caves complex is unique because it is one of the few caves in Australia to have formed in dolomite, which is harder and heavier than limestone. It is worth a visit especially if you have not seen the inside of a cave before! By the way the underground temperature is an even 9°C no matter the season.

After we had completed our guided hour long cave tour by Parks and Wildlife staff we went back to the Robbiebago at Ida Bay where we were camping, for a few hours before going back in the late afternoon to enjoy a swim in the Thermal Spring Pool just a few kilometres from the Cave. The entry fee included both automatically. The pool water is a steady 28°C. It doesn't seem that hot, but it certainly is pleasant and one is able to swim or paddle even though it was much too cool out of the water to really sit in the sunshine and enjoy. Personally I was a little disappointed with the pool. My expectation was for something of a more natural rock pool sort of image in my head, whereas the reality was that they had corralled the hot springs into a regular concrete pool environment which I suppose makes it more accessible for people and possibly easier and/or cheaper to maintain. I suppose it is just one of my silly expectations being a bit unrealistic. Having said that the pool and surrounds are very nice but look like any community swimming pool anywhere.

We also took advantage of the hot showers to freshen up rather than use the shower within our motorhome. If you have thicker skin than us or come on a beautifully warm day, then there are picnic tables and a hut for you to enjoy your visit. Food is also available at the Visitor Centre from where you walk into the pool.

Hastings Chalet

Just outside the entry to the Hot Springs Pool you will see a lovely old building that has been well maintained. It is Hastings Chalet. It was built in 1938 from rough sawn wood and river stones. which has also served as a tearoom and a kiosk in times past as well as a few other uses.

 

Salamanca Markets, Hobart

Yippee!! A day off and first stop, well almost - I just had to pop past a chemist on the way. We arrived at the Salamanca Markets and were blessed with finding a parking spot really close  straight away. Once you've paid your parking and can set yourself towards the markets, you immediately feel alive. That vibe that sets a great market off within the hearts of people if you know what I mean.

The waterside area is bustling with people of all ages and colour. The sun is out, it is warm and everyone is out for a good time and the hunt for a great bargain or that something unique! Oh and don't forget the food! Yes! The smell of the sausages was killing me even though it was far too early. I must say I was tempted by the huge variety and I have to take a bite, especially when there are quite a few stalls offering taste samples of their yummy goodies. There were stalls that offer espresso coffee, kebabs, Asian dishes, my trusty potato spuds with a variety of toppings, milk shakes, home made ice cream, pancakes, homemade fudge & many others. If you want something a little less casual then don't forget that there are cafes & restaurants lining the sidewalks and nearby streets.

I love the little cones of fresh cherries on offer.

The number of stalls was huge offering all sorts of goodies, many of them hand made from platypus quilted toys, wooden dolls, papercrafts, soaps & scents, apparels, plants and flowers, honey, wines, fruits and vegetables and so much more. It was great to see so many Tassie-made products, many with a unique flavour or take on a concept.

Some amazing creativity was on view at many, many stalls

Well, I must say that I didn’t have anywhere near enough time to experience all the stalls since we also wanted to reach the top of Mt Wellington while Tassie's rare sun was out! I certainly hope I can make a return trip here and take in even more of the creativity and vibrant atmosphere here!